a wealth of new impressions
John and Teresa Condon travel to France in 2025
This travelogue was written by John Condon
shortly upon returning. (The title of this essay
is from the Matisse museum in Nice.)
TERESA AND I TRAVELED TO FRANCE in late September 2025. I had been positively itching to travel more in Europe, so we signed up over a year before this tour commenced. I had never been to France, and Teresa was in Paris 35 years before, briefly. Teresa and I had traveled to Ireland earlier in 2025, which was great training for this kind of tour, as they had a similar construction.
We signed up for a Rick Steves “My Way” tour called “The Best of France in 13 Days”. Rick Steves (who was not on this tour) runs dozens of tours all over the world every year, but only 4 are “My Way” tours. (“My Way” tours are in France, Spain, The Alps, and Italy.) On a “My Way” tour you only receive hotel accommodations, a bus between overnight stays, a couple of day tours on the route between overnight cities, and a guide to help plan departures and to instruct you in the ways of the cities and hotels and such. We traveled by bus every other day, usually for a half day, then we had the rest of that day and the entirety of the next day to do as we pleased in that particular city. Rick Steves emphasizes packing light and not checking bags, so that’s what we did. I wore the same black cargo pants for a week and they still looked great! Interestingly, France is almost exactly the same size as Texas.
We traveled with 26 other people. Most were older than us, but we weren’t the youngest either. We grew to really enjoy these people, and Teresa memorized all of their names within a day or two. I knew about 5 of them. They came from all over the U.S., and one lady came from Australia. There was a mix of singles and couples. Some were very experienced travelers who had taken dozens of such tours, while others were on this kind of adventure for the first or second time. A few walked with canes, and I would say the oldest was 80 with many in the 75-77 age group. Traveling like this is hard work and Europe is not built well for handicapped travelers with mobility issues, so I salute these old folks for taking on the challenge. I heard more than a few of them comment that they would travel until they dropped.
Our guide was Margaret, who has been with Rick Steves for a very long time. She is pictured at lower left. We are standing in front of Chambord, a chateau that is best described as ridiculously excessive, with over 400 rooms.
That’s the basic construction of the tour. Now I will describe some of the adventures along the way, some of the “new impressions”.
Paris
Paris is amazing in every way. We stayed at a small hotel on the left bank of the seine. We dropped our bags at the hotel after arriving there about 10 AM, and hit the streets until check-in time. After meeting the group about 5 PM at the hotel, we decided to walk to the River Seine. It was twilight and we walked the two miles and checked out the sights along the shore. We got lost on the way back and found out that Teresa’s phone didn’t work on the internet, so we looked at our map with its tiny print, using the light for the phone and the illumination from the shops. The streets are completely random, seeing as how they have been there since 400 AD. We made guesses using the stars for navigation, and finally we asked at a bookstore for assistance. The impeccably dressed owner, a lady in round glasses and a scarf, pointed down the street and so we went that way. We walked down a busy street another mile and finally trudged to the hotel about 9. We had been awake for 36 hours at that point. We were exhausted.
The weather in Paris was about 55 degrees and there was mist, and sometimes rain. The next day we donned our raincoats and took the metro to the Eiffel Tower. I was awestruck. It is so impressive, a great achievement of metal working and design. We did not go up in it. We then took a metro train to the wonderful Musee D’Orsay. The D’Orsay is in the old train station, and the building alone is jaw-dropping in its beauty and huge scale. The exhibits focus on art mostly from 1820 to 1920 or so, with a big space devoted to impressionism, which I cherished along with the 5000 other people from every country imaginable. I have started dabbling in painting this past year, so I got my nose right in there for a good look at the brushstrokes and composition. We had bread, cheese, jam, and wine for supper in our room, all purchased on the street nearby from little shops. We then returned to the Seine for an after-dark champagne cruise on a big tour boat. It was cool and a bit misty, so I had on two pairs of pants and three hats (ball cap, stocking cap, rain jacket hood) so I was comfy. Most everyone else on the boat had shorts or dresses, nothing on their heads, and while they retained their excellent French sense of style I was more comfortable dressed like a bum. The Eiffel Tower is lit up in glittering lights for five minutes each hour, so our boat went very close to it as it lit up. The experience could not have been richer. So many things about French culture simply can’t be improved. I have read that they are a people who are hard to impress, and I can see why. Paris is a place I would love to revisit.
The Bus
The bus, by design, is only half full. Our driver for the week, Harvey, is about 55 and a bit shop worn, one of the few overweight people we saw on our trip. The bus was newish, with a small bathroom which we were told to only use in emergencies. I found the bus rides rather uncomfortable. I am not used to having my bladder on a timer. I had to watch how many tiny cups of coffee I drank at breakfast. We stopped every hour and a half for a bathroom break. The roads were generally excellent, and people didn’t speed much. (There must be some stout penalties for road infractions.) I enjoyed seeing the countryside, which I had seen already in Van Gogh paintings. We were assigned a “buddy” who we had to check in with before the bus rolled at any stop. Mine was “Bud”, a very well traveled man from Savannah, GA.
Food
We had our first French lunch at a nice café, where I had a sausage made from tripe in a mustard sauce. I had watched a lot of YouTube videos describing how to order food in France, and what to expect in restaurants. What I learned from traveling there is that very little is different. The service is as fast and generally better than the states. The waiters are paid well and don’t expect tips. They didn’t introduce themselves or describe the specials, but they were cheerful and professional, and reasonably attentive. They also served tiny coffees with no refills. Every restaurant, by law, has the menu posted outside on the street so you can peruse the offerings. We had big lunches and small suppers, and avoided fancy places. The hotels all provided a large and interesting breakfast buffet. We had good cheese for breakfast. The French simply excel at bread, pastries, cheese, crepes, and wine. The French are not different from us in the speed that they eat lunch. I had heard that they linger over meals for hours and such nonsense. They do use the knife and fork method which makes me feel like a cave man, as I shovel food into the pie hole with only my fork. I watched a guy eat a huge hamburger with a knife and fork, but he ate the fries with his fingers. I had lunches of lamb shank, fish soup, onion soup, crepes, sausage, bread and cheese, fish, and it was always an intriguing experience. We visited many food markets, and we bought a large chunk of nougat from a talkative nougat seller in Annecy. We shared the sweet taffy-like almond treat with the group at a picnic at a Roman aqueduct the next day.
Biking
We took two biking excursions. The first was in Amboise in the Loire Valley. The Loire is a beautiful river, and home to many chateaus and vineyards. It also features 200 miles of paved, marked biking trails. We rented high-end eBikes and took off, firstly to buy gloves at the market because the temp was in the low 50s. We rode through forests, small villages, large vineyards, along two rivers, and finally came to a huge chateau (where the rest of the group had bussed to) called Chenonceau on the River Cher. We walked through the ancient home and were particularly impressed with the flower and vegetable gardens. We ate lunch nearby in the village, sitting next to a married couple from Paris who were on a weekend getaway. They were going to visit their grandkids nearby. They were sharing a bottle of wine and were as friendly as could be. Teresa spoke with them in French. She has over 400 straight days on Duolingo French and it came in very handy, though most everyone spoke some English as well. (Sometimes Teresa would begin to converse with someone in French, waving her hands and looking for the words, and they would simply say “I speak English!”).
We biked back, taking a little side track along the river, and returned the bikes after a sweet ride of 40 miles.
We also biked around Lake Annecy on rented eBikes of lower quality than a few days before, but the ride could not have been more gorgeous. The low mountains rose above the glacial lake, and the well-maintained and well-used paved trail was a joy to ride. We stopped at a pastry/bread place for lunch in a little village. We plan on returning to the Loire Valley (Amboise) to eBike again in the future. Mick Jagger has a chateau nearby so we’ll invite him too.
In Lyon we stayed a block from a large central square. We walked over and found that there was a 2-day Cargo eBike Expo taking place. There were about 50 vendors, food trucks, and a large area to test ride the eBikes. Many of the bikes were used to haul kids as well as cargo, with sometimes two kids and the rider on a bike. They are entirely practical vehicles and we enjoyed the expo two days in a row.
The Jam and the Opera
In Avignon we were walking back to the hotel after an outing and we spotted a young man who goes by Sparky on Spotify at an outdoor table in front of a bar/café. He spoke English, and he worked at the bar and he was hanging out on his day off. His guitar was a black Fender acoustic, the very same model that I bought in 1978 as my first new guitar purchase. I played a bit, and I asked if he would be there later, and he said that he would. I had a plan! A member of the group heard that I was a guitarist and he said he played harmonica and had brought 3 of them on the trip, and he wanted to jam. His name was Buddy, and he was from Georgia. He is 75 and his wife Gale about 73. So, after a happy hour event with the group at the hotel, we walked a block and I asked the manager if we could play some music outside at a corner table. He was eager for us to play, so we pulled up some chairs near the street and jammed. Buddy played some good blues, though I wore him out during a long medley of rock oldies. A French man requested Elvis Presley and I took off. Japanese tourists stopped and 6 of them filmed Buddy and I. Hotel California was requested so Teresa and Sparky sang it and Buddy played some nice harmonica. I wanted to push my chair back a bit and promptly fell off the curb, free-falling into the street with the guitar flying. The guitar and I were fine. Sparky bought us all a beer. We hung around with Buddy and Gale after the jam and played “name that movie theme” with a bar pianist.
In Nice, on our first walk through the old part of town, we passed a big ornate Opera House. We went in just to see if a tour was available. The ticket office was open and there was a show that very night, so at my demand we bought tickets for Phillip Glass’s 1980 opera Satyagraha.
The tickets were in what we might call the “nosebleeds”. The venue had 6 stories, and we were seated in balcony 5. Being uncomfortable with heights, being right in the front row on the rail in balcony 5 was too much. I moved back two rows so as to be against the wall. I gradually got more comfortable as we sat for 45 minutes until the Opera started. The opera was ultra minimalist and modern, though it was sung in Sanskrit and told an ancient tale. Subtitles in French and English were projected above the stage. The music was engaging and it was repetitive by design, like chants or prayers. Images were projected on the ceilings, the sides of the house, and on a sheer screen in front of the stage. It was very compelling but began to get quite warm in the venue, so we saw 2 out of the 3 acts and walked 6 blocks to the hotel.
Museums
In addition to the Musee d’Orsay, we visited the Musee Luminaire in Lyon (inventors of motion pictures), the Musee Calvet in Avignon (impressionism, modern, Dutch), the last home and workshop of Leonardo di Vinci, Close de Luce, in Amboise, the huge Roman aqueduct Pont de Gard and its museum, the Musee Matisse and the neighboring archaeological museum with its Roman bath ruins. Leonardo was brilliant and his final home was very compelling. Matisse was not my cup of tea, or maybe not my teeny-tiny cup of coffee. The d’Orsay is the second most popular museum in Paris after the Louvre, which we skipped because I reckoned we needed many days to fully appreciate it. The chateaus were also museums of a sort.
Perceptions
France is a quieter country than the U.S. Walking around cities as much as we did, we were pleasantly aware that there wasn’t loud music pouring out of bars and restaurants. Many of the trains and trams are on rubber wheels, making them pretty quiet. I saw only a couple of small PA systems in any venue and didn’t hear one rock band in two weeks. We hardly heard anyone raise their voice. There were no TVs in bars and restaurants. There was soft music, often English rock playing low in a few bars.
French people are stylish, even graceful. I’m sure they have their louts, but my general impression is that how they dress and carry themselves is given thought. They are not too prissy and fussy, just thoughtful. The architecture and public facilities are very well done, and the roads were very good. They have nice things. We encountered no rudeness of any kind. France is interesting in that the French people themselves make up half of their tourism, so a tourist is not automatically pegged as an outsider. And they have the best pastries in the world!
What We Learned as Travelers
Rick Steves is a good company, and our trip could hardly be better. Having said that, and having taken two European bus-city-bus-city trips this year, we talked about other ways to travel. In the past I would plan the entire trip, and this resulted in some excellent travel. When we return to France we will book it ourselves, staying longer in fewer cities. We will fly in and out of Paris and take trains between towns. ( In Nice, flying out, we stood in the longest line that I have ever been in. Nice is overrun with tourists, and was our least favorite city). We plan to spend more time near Amboise in the Loire Valley and bike more on the trails in the gorgeous countryside. We need to have more reliable phones and warmer clothes, but in general we packed very well and didn’t lose anything. Teresa had a bad cold and cough which lingered, but I was well, which is a small miracle. The group camaraderie is something we will miss, but not having to ride the bus won’t be missed. Trains are much better. We took a train 15 miles from Avignon to Arles where Van Gogh lived for some time, and it was a delight. We have utilized trains in prior trips, including both Ireland trips we have taken, and we look forward to more train travel. After a grueling travel day with two flights, and a long nap in the truck at midnight behind a motel, we made it back alive and well and happy.